Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Indian Embroidery Stitches Up Into A More Organised Sector

Indian embroidery has gained a new horizon

Embroidery is one of the oldest and most accepted styles of surface ornamentation of fabrics and garments, and India is among the leading producer of embroidered fabrics and garments worldwide.

Be it Chickankari from Lucknow or Phulkari from Punjab or Ari or Kutchi embroidery from Kutch, each is being valued and have their own consumer. Indian embroidery has gained a new horizon and has created a niche for itself in the world market. Their exclusive style and stitches imitates the ethos and culture of their region.

The increasing demand of embroidered wear as ethnic wear in youths

Today, in India embroidered Salwar-kameez, Lehnga-cholis and Sarees, Sherwani, Kurta-pyjama with stole, Churidar, in various traditional designs are popular and demanded as 'Ethnic Wear' or 'Heritage Wear'. Jeans and jackets with embroidered pockets and in various designs in front or backside are very much demanded; even embroidered neckties and t-shirts are also very much demanded as a latest trend. Even these traditional Indian wears or ethnic wears are being more popular in Western countries too.

In recent time the demand of garments with embroidery is more than that with prints in ladies and girls apparels. Embroidery is favored over prints because of its eco-friendly characteristics. Garments with sequins and crochet laces (of Indian looks) are well recognized by foreign customers and now such works are available and very much demanded in sleepwear too. Even home furnishing products like bed sheets, tapestry, bed linen, kitchen linen etc are also more demanded with various traditional embroideries.

Traditionally, embroidery is utilized for embellishing of apparel and products such as undergarment have not occupied with much of embroidery. This type of embellishment is only now accepting for menswear.

India is still an undeveloped market for embroideries. Studies have revealed that consumption of embroidery per person in India is Rs 8 per annum. The market size of the Indian embroidery is slated to be approximately Rs 800-900 crore per annum and embroidery market of India is increasing at 20 percent per annum. This shows the enormous prospective market of embroidery in the country, which requires more efforts to tap the market.

The efforts for getting organized

With its traditional embroidery garment demands, the local embroidery production is almost totally unorganized with very small units located in scattered areas of the country. These are like a cottage industry. Majority of the exporters in this segment do not have any production facilities, but get the jobs done from such small units.

Surat, Ahmedabad, Kutch and Mumbai are the major embroidery centers in the country, and Bareilly, Muradabad, etc are well known for their beadwork. Surat is holding a strong position in this segment.

Furthermore, the demands in the domestic market for very small lots and very large varieties only help to the small units. Many exporters into embroidered and printed fabrics of Mumbai get its orders done by units located in Dharavi and Govandi areas. But, it is not easy to get established soon in the domestic market, as local competition and small units are operating with their traditional embroidery skills.

Typically with 2 and 4 embroidery machines and very small units, till a decade ago embroidery business of India was considered as unorganized. But at present, 60 percent of the market is attributed by organized players.

The export market is more organized and majority of professional producers exports their products to the UK, Saudi Arabia, Morocco, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Egypt. Many exporters are exporting to their products in various countries, depending upon the demands and are growing at a rate of 15-20 per cent per annum.

In the international market and in India, the demand for garments embellished with embroideries with sequins and crystals is high. Though, embroidery is utilized in a whole lot of products internationally, the market has still a large gap, and it needs to fill up this gap with the exact requirement of consumers of worldwide as well as Indian.

In recent time, some large players have taken interest in to enter in the sector after realizing the huge potential and to fill up this gap and have been making efforts for getting more organized. Nearly 3,500 multi-head computerized embroidery machines are being set up in Surat; nearly 1,500 such machines are setting up in Mumbai, and a similar number each in Tirupur, Bangalore, Coimbatore, Ludhiana. All these units will need best quality embroidery yarns.

With capacity of 5 billion stitches per annum, Pioneer Industries is the biggest in Asia for crochet laces and schiflli embroidered fabrics.

Surat: in the race of becoming a hub of the embroidery

Textile industrialists of Surat city of Gujarat foresee a huge potential for clothes embellished with chic embroidery work, in both in the foreign and Indian market. In Surat, by many textile industrialists more than 3,500 latest embroidery machines have been established in the last one year to satisfy the growing demand of embroidered clothes in the country and abroad. Many textile industrialists of Surat aim to make Surat as the hub of the embroidery industry with these embroidery machines having an inbuilt capacity of manufacturing multiple designs.

These machines were imported from the countries like China, Korea and Germany, the costs of each machines range between Rs 10 lakh to Rs 2 crore. These machines are operated with computerized system. The designs are all set on the computer and then it is ready for embroidery work on the machines.

These embroidery machines have substituted the old-fashioned Jackard and Doby machines, which were utilized to make designs on the sarees and dress materials. Though, the industrialists believe that the embroidery machines are designed to offer 110 percent output against the Jackard and Doby machines which provide only 10 to 20 percent output.

The scenario has changed in the last two years with the arrival of latest embroidery machines. Though, it is not easy to compare the art of machine to that of human hands, but these machines offer the quality of work and save human hours. Also it is not easy to evaluate the cost of embroidery done on machines and those done by hands. The embroidery made on machine is much cheaper than hand-embroidery.

In Surat, by this way old technology is being substituted by the new technology and this is the right approach to value addition, really Surat has the potential to develop the embroidery industry. In Surat, at present the 3,500 odd-embroidery machines are producing more than one lakh meters of cloth per day and it is estimated to increase three-fold in the next two years. Majority of producers are exporting around 60 per cent of embroidered clothes to foreign countries and also doing job-work for the different companies and fashion houses across the country. Besides casual wears and dress materials, the fashion of wearing embroidered undergarments is also going to increase.

Threads and yarns

Threads, the vital part of this sector, are easily available in the country. Consumption of embroidery yarns in the country exists at nearly 11,000 tones per annum, of which viscose has a major share. Demand for embroidery thread in the country is increasing at a rate of about seven percent per annum. In India, threads are easily obtainable, but there is possibility for improvement in quality. And majority of thread producers are planning to expand capacities.

Indian Rayon has planned the production of viscose embroidery yarns realizing the requirement for quality embroidery yarns with yarns' capacity of 850 stitches per minute. To fine-tune the quality of the yarn, Indian Rayon is now stabilizing the dyeing processes, and also planning to improve the colour fastness of the yarns, ensuring azo-free dyeing, etc. They will be starting commercial production by December 2005, or by January 2006 with the aim of receiving 10 percent of the market share by 2006-07.

Viscose yarns are largely used in embroidery, cotton, polyester and metallic yarns are also utilized for making embroidered products.

Latest embroidery machineries

For completing big orders, it is not feasible to completely depend on hand-made works and there is a requirement to mechanize all the hand works.

Many embroidery garment exporters are importing their embroidery machines from Germany, Japan, Taiwan, and China. Many players use only German and Japanese embroidery machines those who can compromise on quality go for Chinese makes.

But looking to the price factor the industry is coming across a decision that Chinese machines are just as good. These machines are performing well for those who need 6-12 head embroidery systems. The price differentiation is huge; for Japanese, Korea against China. Chinese machineries are cheaper than Japanese, Korean and Germany and hence this attracts people to purchase Chinese machines.

Pioneer Industries produces its schiflli embroidered products on Swiss machines and multi-head embroidered products on German machines. Garment Machinery System is intending to bring in machines that can sew beads, in February 2006. ZSK has approached with a new technique in embellishment called StitchTuft, a soft, though stable cut pile.

Tajima has introduced a new embroidery machine for chenille stitch with sequin. Its TCMX series, the chenille embroidery heads work at 750 rpm. Combination of chenille embroidery in six colours and by using alternatives like high speed sequin device gives high precision and higher-value added embroidery.

Indian embroidery

In India, according to the community or region there are many embroidery styles and designs available, which include mirrors, beads, stones, shell, jute ropes etc.

Banjara tribal women located near by Hyderabad wear blouses and head scarves embroidered and decorated with mirrors. Embleshied with motifs of flowers, creepers and chinar leaves, mango the Kashmiri embroidery or kashida and Zardozi are very much popular, and Amritsar is well know for making kashida work.

While prepared with the help of an awl, Ari embroidery of Kutch is popular for its heavy work. Rabari embroidery of Gujarat is well-known and widely available, the women of this community wear black skirts with various embroidered designs; even children wear heavily embroidered salwars and shirts. There are many communities in Kutch like Sodha, Jats, Aahirs, Dhebaria Rabari, Mochi (Cobbler community), Meghwal, Mutwa, and Node? Jats, which make embroidery (Rabari embroidery, Ahir embroidery, Sindhi embroidery, Banni embroidery, Mutwa embroidery, Ari embroidery, Soof embroidery) on various garments according to their traditional designs. Besides these, in Gujarat Kanbi, Ahir and Kathiawari communities make embroidery in their traditional styles.

Dating back to 15th century Punjab's Phulakari embroidery (significantly divided into two words - Phul meaning flower and Kari meaning work that means floral work) created for Punjabi women to embellish their Odhnis, Chaddars, Shawls and Blouses. Besides their textiles and stitches, Phulkari itself is categorized into various types- Chope, Sainichi, Seeshadar and the bagh. The Bagh is one of the popular Phulakari and generally worn in parties and ceremonies.

The "Chikankari" embroidery is largely practiced in the city of Lucknow, the Nawabs of India were used to wear their clothes with this embroidery. Along with heavily worked out Zardosi or other traditional Indian embroidery, the Chikankari embroidery is available with stitches in the patterns of flowers, paisleys and various Indian motifs and is most popular in embellishing ghagra cholis, full-length dresses etc.

Hand embroidery embellished in their traditional patterns with various designs covering mirror, are very popular. Kasuti embroidery (Dharwar, Karnataka) done on handloom saris is well recognized among Indian women.

Besides these, there is also availability of readymade shapes of the material with names such as nakshi, sadi, kora and kangani are stitched on to form of zardozi patterns. This material is get by weight and is readily available in bunches known as lachhis.

It is still to articulate, there is only one aspect that is identify Indian styles and culture worldwide, is the Indian embroidery, which cannot be replicated elsewhere. It is the expertise and talent that goes into embroidery, which provides an Indian garment its distinctive look. The demand of Indian embroidery products will remain forever with its various cultural and regional styles and preference of design of numbers of communities.

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Monday, January 28, 2008

Quilt, Embroidery Design, Embroidered Quilts

Embroidered quilts have been called the expression of the person making the quilt. There have been a lot of styles in which the quilts can be embroidered. Kantha is a traditional Indian quilt embroidery technique and a rather exquisite one. Crazy quilts involve patchwork quilting. Applique is another embroidery commonly used for quilting. Redwork embroidery is quite common on quilts.

Quilting involves filling up fiber or layers of cloth between two to cloth layers and sealing with evenly spread stitches. These are used as bed covers, quilts and for other covering purposes. The technique used for quilt embroidery can be handwork or machine work though traditionally handwork is perferred.Used also in Baby Embroidered Quilts.

quilt, embroidered quilts, embroidery design, embroidered quilts baby, quilt manufacturers, quilt exporters, quilt wholesale, quilt supplier, quilt wholesale supplier, quilt, India

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Know-How of Machine Embroidery

It can be (Machine embroidery) as simple as selecting wonderful design, inserting the design card into the machine, hooping the fabric and pushing a button. But if one aims to manufacture good-looking garments with soft, flexible embroidery, there is much one should know.

Even the fabrics like silks and soft wools can be machine-embroidered. But manufacturing elegant embroidery, which is well matched with the fabric, doesn't wrinkle, or alter the fabric's drape, includes the relations of all the following essentials: a machine that's well-adjusted and placed at the suitable needle and bobbin tensions, a well-equipped and located design, the exact needle and thread for the job, and a sound knowledge of the fabric being embroidered therefore it's properly hooped and stabilized. The article will discuss these fundamentals, but the content will focus on how to select designs and fabrics that are suited with each other and tell what to do when they are not.

Good Design & Digitising in Embroidery

Good design and digitising need some excellent ingredients like production friendliness, proper pathing, proper underlay, a balance of stitch count and detail.

Production friendliness means designs must be visually pleasant; but it is more crucial that they must be sewn fast and proficiently. Customers have to understand this serious matter: by giving a little more money for good digitising, they save their money by reducing machine time.

Though, techniques of Proper Pathing are difficult to master, it is the foundation of effective designs. Proper pathing is complicated in terms of many concerned variables, including the type of fabric, the design's foreground and background. Proper underlay is unseen but it is a significant part of a design. Underlay helps perfect the look of design and it also enables you to loosen your high compactness that decreases total stitch count and helps designs run better. Proper digitising is the result of good placing of underlay concerning the top stitch. The break wall of underlay prevents the top stitching from sticking to the fabric or stitching bottom.

A balance of stitch count and detail helps digitising demonstrates detail without producing a mess of stitches. Manufacturers must not forget that the thread has a mass of 1 mm; therefore they should allow the viewer to fill in the design's space with his mind's eye. After all, designs are generally viewed from a certain distance.

Designs with high compactness are likely to become impenetrable and rough to the person wearing the garment. Manufacturers should reduce the densities with developing coats of embroidery. They must consider the suppleness of fabric when a manufactured sample does not please eyes of viewers.

There are many features connected with good digitising; these are clean lettering, efficient artwork modification, importance of push/pull issues, knowledge of stitch length and type, correct tie-ins and tie-outs, successful blending, a good perception of when to use or not use automatic software functions and other factors.

Compatible Design and Fabric

Fabric features, its proposed usages and the particulars of design form a winning combination of fabric and design. But there are some hurdles, which should be coped with. Manufacturers must take care if the design's stitch density would alter the hand of the fabric. If yes, this should not become a problem in your project. Then the effects of colour, weight and texture of fabric on design should be examined. If manufacturer is able to obtain good results by using backing and topping, simple change of thread colours might make the fabric and design work together. Modifying design to make it work or selecting design might prove an unwelcome option.

Stabilizing the fabric

When high-speed embroidery is concerned, knit is taken as unstable fabric. A cut-away stabilizer is the solution to design stability while the design is being embroidered and it stays behind the embroidery pattern all through the life of the garment.

. A fusible or non-fusible cut-away stabilizer in a weight harmonizes the fabric weight. Extremely heavy stabiliser makes the designs stiff; on the other hand a stabilizer, which is incredibly light will enhance the probability of the design cupping and wrinkling.

Various coatings of lightweight cut-away stabiliser are advised for heavyweight knit and grade the stabiliser layers after embroidering. This will stop extra volume behind the design and next to the body.

. Used with knits, a tear-away stabiliser may draw back from the design during embroidery, creating design deformation and mismatched figures.

. Combine knit tricot bordering to the fabric incorrect side under the embroidery region so that fabric stretch can be stabilised before hooping. Knit tricot interfacing has the same cross-grained stretch as the fashion knit, so combine the interfacing stretch perpendicular to the knit fabric stretch. Remember that cut-away stabilizer is still essential even though interfacing is used to hold the fabric.

. To prevent misaligned outlines, forward through the design and stitch the outline first to secure all the layers together, using a thread colour that goes with the fabric. Then embroider the design from the beginning, re-stitching the outline in sequence

Backing and Topping are Fabric stabilizers

Backing

Backing, as the name denotes, gives support and structure placed under the item or fabric being embroidered; it is a woven or non-woven material. Backings are available in various density and patterns.

Use of Backing

Backing is used to support the item being embroidered; it handles the stitches being applied to the fabric or item being sewn. Backing gives an additional support to prevent distortion of the design being sewn. Manufacturers are always in dilemma which backing they should apply to improve the quality of products. The most important rule for embroidery is to stabilise the fabric. Manufacturers use backing to stabilise the design sewn on the garment. Stabiliser works as the foundation of design and everyone knows that any project or work will come out wrong without having a good foundation. The same principle is applicable to embroidery also. If a builder wants to erect a skyscraper, he has to make the foundation strong. The requirement of backing is in proportion to the number of stitches of design. If the backing is lightweight, four layers are more than enough. Some common sense might be useful at this moment. Multiple layers of backing are better than one layer of heavier backing.

Topping

Toppers keep the stitches above the surface. There are various kinds of toppings like water-soluble, coloured vinyl or matching organza. Put the topper over the design region and use the machines' fix/baste function to support it in place during embroidery. Toppers can be taken off by carefully cutting or eliminating according to the directives of the manufacturers. Organza topper can be taken off by holding it tight above the design and cut close to the design edge using sharp, curved scissors. The organza cut edge will vanish back into the fabric, but will stay under the design for firmness.

Designs

Light and airy designs are perfect for knit fabrics. Even after selecting the ideal stabilizer, the knits might be curled, cupped or distorted by solid, dense designs.

Designs must be selected according to the weight of knit. Simple, less dense or outline designs are advisable for lightweight knits. If a thick design is embroidered on a lightweight knit, the fabric that hems in design will be overburdened. A design with more detailing but not excessively dense works best for sweatshirting and other heavyweight knits.

Floating appliqu?s responds well to machine embroidery designs, which are preprogrammed. Manufacturers must consider how the designs stitch out prior to selecting designs. The stitches must hold themselves even after the stabilizer is detached, hence the design should start with running stitches and then have satin stitches added to support the design. All the stitched areas must connect to retain the design shape.

Occasionally, the stitches in a design appear to be totally connected, but when the stabilizer is removed, the embroidery falls apart. If in doubt about the design's stability, sandwich a layer of sheer fabric, such as organdy, organza or tulle, with the water-soluble stabilizer prior to stitching. After the stabilizer is removed, carefully trim away any fabric outside the design area

The same procedure can be used if the appliqu? has open areas in the design. To ensure the sheer fabric in the appliqu? won't show, select a colour close to the garment it will be placed on.

Puckering

If your design is 4" square, use the size hoop closest to the size of the design. Fabric can be distorted by extra large hoop used during the embroidery procedure. Puckering appears on the design when the fabric is unhooped. Fabric must be hooped tightly not rigidly. Too taut of fabric could result in the stretching of the fabric and will cause the same result - puckering of the fabric around the design. Adjusting the size of the hoop before the last hooping is also significant. First, set the screw on your hoop just about where you think it should be for the layers of stabilizer and fabric. Then, try to hoop your fabric - continue hooping and unhooping until you have the perfect tension. Never adjust the screw on the hoop after hooping your fabric with the stabilizer. This action will cause the fabric to shift in the hoop and ultimately cause puckering of the fabric around designs.

Distortion

Achievement of desired results is relied on proper selection and use of stabilizer. Design will create distortion in the fabric on which the design is being stitched out. If the distortion is not reduced, it can cause misalignments of the design outline as well as other features. If misaligned features or gaps in between fills create troubles, the problem is most likely a result of improper choice and use of stabilizer or poor hooping method.

Applying perfect stabilizer can minimize fabric distortion that occurs as the design is being stitched out. The quality of the finished work is much affected by both the type of stabilizer used and technique used to attach the fabric to the stabilizer. The distortion of design depends on the density of stabilizer; it is also significant to take in that there is a strong relationship between connection of fabric to the stabilizer and tendency of its movement while the design is being stitched out. All of designs incorporate underlay stitching which facilitates the fabric to get linked with the underlying stabilizer. Using either adhesive sprays or stabilizers such as Wet N Set, which include some form of adhesive, can often further improve this union between the fabric and stabilizer.

Fabric Coverage

Poor coverage is the result of loose stitches and one can see through the embroidery stitching. Other things like colour or texture, thread selection, enlarging the design, or even personal preference cause poor fabric coverage. This poor result can be corrected by digitizing with proper stitch choice, with more stitches and underlay stitches and with the help of suitable backing and topping. A topping like Coverup can be used to prevent poor coverage. The proper colour has the ability to cancel the influences of coloured or printed fabrics and can control the pile of fabric quickly.

Designs, which are enlarged on some embroidery system lengthens the stitches and extends the spacing between them. Such designs do not protect fabric as well as their unscaled corresponding parts. Put gold lam? as topping if the customizing software lengthens the stitches and widens the rows. The spaces generated from elongating the stitches will have the sparkling lam? peeping through, and you may even generate a more remarkable effect than the first design. Fabric coverage is also influenced by personal choice. Expectation of total coverage of fabric, not considering thread-colour selections gives birth to inflexible embroidery, which expert embroiderers and digitizers consider to be of poor quality - and which will probably cause other troubles like puckering, thread breaks or even fabric damage.

Misalignment

Tearaway backing with a design, which has ample fill regions, can cause inferior registration like gapping or misaligned outlines. These designs can crash a tearaway and weaken the stability before the figure has been totally sewn. To solve this problem, use only a cutaway backing or stuck with embroidery spray paste.

Poor registration can be resulted from excessively stiff tensions also. Such situation makes you loosen your bobbin and upper thread tensions to put it right. Roughly woven fabric threads may create what might come out to be inferior registration. By deflecting the needle to one side of the fabric threads, the fabric fibres can create bumpy edges. Stable and smooth-finish fabric is ideal for clean-edged effects.

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Thursday, January 24, 2008

The Art of Embroidery

Embroidery has survived history in different forms. It has existed in one form or the other for many years. Embroidery is a fulfilling art form which has become an interesting pass time for people from all segments of society. In the recent past, this has made advancements in a lot of aspects, and many of those who are not fully involved with embroidery are unaware of the immense developments.

Basic embroidery means creating a pattern on fabric by using multi-colored threads. Chances are if you buy something already embroidered, it was done by machine. Hand embroidery is time consuming and doesn't lend itself to mass marketing. Most who embroider use a pattern, although some can create as they go.

The patters are as inexpensive as the thread and needles. So without much investment on equipment, anyone can craft fascinating art work on tablecloths, napkins, blankets, dress- materials etc. Internet offers many embroidery related material on the web. You can easily find a lot of embroidery patterns on the web and print it at home or get it sent to you and use it in your embroidery.

Advanced sewing machines are available today which can do embroidery with little assistance from you. Some are even software powered, which enables you to specify where to point the needle to craft a design to suit your requirement. But embroidery by hand still remains the first option of many people for whom it is a hobby. For them embroidery by hand provides a more fulfilling experience compared to embroidery by machine.

If you interested in getting into embroidery but aren't sure where to start, you may be able to find a class at your local community college that can help you understand the basics. They will probably take you through a few simple designs and patterns. Once you understand how to read the pattern and do the stitching, you can pretty much tackle any design you're interested in.

Many craft fairs and embroidery conventions are organized in the country for exposure on embroidery. Apart from that, you can get a lot of information on embroidery from various other sources such as the internet. Many websites are available on the net which are purely dedicated to the cause of embroidery. These sites offer free embroidery patterns for you to download or patterns for discounted prices for you to buy.

You can subscribe to many embroidery magazines to enrich your knowledge and get started. These magazines offer lessons and tips on embroidery. They also give you a lot of free patterns on embroidery apart from other useful information. These magazines concentrate on the most important aspect of the needles and thread that you will need to finely craft a pattern. These magazines also keep you up-to-date with the current developments in embroidery and activate your imagination for your next embroidery project.

Embroidery is a hobby that many people have enjoyed for hundreds of years. You can create some beautiful designs and it is a very fulfilling past time. You don't have to be partially creative to start embroidery. As long as you can follow instructions and have a little patience, you can be creating interesting and unique designs in no time. Pearl Mertens is the chief writer at RC Embroidery, visit there today for the latest Embroidery advice, and why not sign up for the free Embroidery newsletter. If you want to read more Embroidery articles go to: http://www.rcembroidery.com/articles

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Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Perfect Backing for Best Looking Embroidery

It is an opinion of all the experts that selection of the perfect backing is the key to achieve the best-looking embroidery. However, this decision is very much personal.

In proportion to cost, embroidery backing is a small investment next to purchasing sewing machinery, but choosing the perfect backing for each project expresses vast difference between a product customers want to buy and one that they do not.

Backing is a non-woven material put behind the garment, which is to be embroidered, holds the fabric firm and does not allow it to move or stretch while the embroidery process is on. Thus backing works as a fulcrum or a strong support for non-woven material.

High-quality backing lengthens the life of the embroidery and improves its looks. Moreover, it increases permanence of the fabric and furnishes stitches more dimensions as thread has more to 'hold on to' as it is sewn. It saves the garment from pressure and friction of the thread and bobbin as it is sewn.

There are some fabrics that do not need backing before doing embroidery, however, like heavy canvas or some woven shirt materials, most do.

The finished product appears much smoother with backing because if no backing is used, particularly on a thin T-shirt, you can get wrinkling. Backing also holds lock stitches tight and prevents them from being pulled out. If stitch tends to get pulled out, it is less expected if you have got backing stabilized the cloth. Backing also makes laundering or dry cleaning last longer.

Backing can also make the machine run more competently and smoothly. Backing helps the needle heat as far as the needle enters the backing. If one has the appropriate backing, one does not get as many thread breaks.

Production of Backings

Embroidery backings are normally fabricated from polyester and rayon fibers that are pressed together to create a non-woven fabric like a paper-sheet.

One cannot define a fixed percentage mixture, but they are composed of polyester and rayon fibres. Processes for fabricating backings hinges on the manufacturer and end users.

John Solomon Inc. and Hollingsworth & Vose both fabricate wet laid backing. To make wet lay, fibers are blended with water and laid on a screen. As the screen ascends, the fibers get dry to form the backing. This is the best form of backing for embroidery for the reason that it is multidirectional - i.e. it does not spread out in any specific direction and it can be torn in any direction. It has an unchanging, even surface, and if you select the appropriate weight, you should require only one layer.

Despite the fact that using numerous layers is a prevalent practice among embroiderers - and in some cases, two layers may be proper - it's generally not the best way to go, as advised by industry wizards.

Use as low-weight a backing as possible. Use a single layer of a medium to heavy backing to hold up rather than taking care of three or four pieces.

It is better not to employ multilayer because of bulk; lot of people in big production houses believe that multi layering is the perfect answer of their problems, but it is just a fallacy.

Backings are also fabricated in carded saturate and random saturate. The fibers in carded saturates are all arranged in one direction. The fibers in random saturates are haphazardly blended.

Which backings to apply

If we ask two or three embroiderers which kind of backing is ideal for which use, and we might receive as many as 10 different answers. Cutaway and tearaway are the two most accepted types of embroidery backings. Both are available in different weights to be used with various weight fabrics.

Cutaway backings are normally a more significant for embroidering sections like soft or very stretchy fabrics, which require more support. They are composed to be clipped from the edges of the finished embroidery. Cutaway backings are for bigger areas like sweatshirts since you have thousands more stitches in the area that is being embroidered. Essentially, when one has smaller areas, one uses backings that tear away. However, the weight of the fabric that one is embroidering also matters.

Since special care is required in clipping close to embroidery, cutaway backings are more time-consuming and it would be an unwise option for large amount of productions. Tearaway backings intend literally to be torn away from the back of the embroidery, and they can be much faster and more effortless to use. They must, however, be used with the appropriate fabrics.

If it is a very light material, sometimes workers or technicians may use a cutaway, because the pressure of tearing might damage the fabric. All embroiders have different opinions about when to use which backing.

There are no hard and fast rules. There are so many variables - machine tensions, thread type, how the operator feels when they wake up in the morning, the weather, and the hooper. It is advisable to use always one layer of backing only. If an embroiderer uses 2000 stitches he prefers lightest weight. Moreover, if embroiderers are doing 15,000 stitches, they do not want to use three layers; it costs them too a large amount of money. Density of their stitches should be in proportion to the number of stitches they do.

The selection of backing is primarily relied on the weight of the fabric. It is recommended that the backing should be slightly lighter in weight than fabric. Both, lightness and heaviness of backing damage the fabric; too light a backing does not give required firmness and too heavy a backing presses down the garment and alters the shape.

Many companies provide lighter weight mesh backing other than standard weights of cutaway and tearaway backings.

As mesh backing is a waffle-weave, some embroiderers like it; it is a very soft backing and it fuses into the fabric after it is cut. Waffle weave does not expose as much in thin fabric.

Since mesh backings are woven, they can be used for embroidering on leather.

Sometimes when somebody embroiders a letter O on vest leather, the O is dropped out. The benefit of a woven backing is that it stitches it back.

Special uses

Adhesive backings are generally used with distinctive hoops or hooping tools.

Those are all fixtures that are fabricated in such a manner that one can put adhesive onto the frame, then put the garment down onto the adhesive backing and it adheres into place while the embroidery is being done, therefore, one does not have to support it. That is for hard-to-hoop items like the rim of a collar or cuff, or for something where one does not want a hoop burn to come forth.

More and more embroiderers are opting for backings that fade away to generate a finely embroidered appearance without the bulk of backings. Water-soluble film, used for years as a topping material, is increasingly common as a backing because it fades away when wet.

The benefit of using it is the complete design comes to be a lot softer. We are inclined to find out a lot in the towel industry, because they require to use topping to keep the stitches from vanishing, but also when they are using it on the back, it appears rather nice without having that typical tearaway left behind. Moreover, any little bits left behind dissolve with the first washing.

It is also used in fashion applications such as wedding costumes. For the moment, it tends not to be used by the big commercial embroiderer who is doing lots of T-shirts or golf shirts. For fabrics that cannot get wet like suede, velvet, corduroy and silk, heat removable backing suits well. The backing fades away with the treatment of a hot iron.

Top it off

Toppings are used on fabrics with loft, texture or nap such as terry cloth, velvet, velour or corduroy to keep the stitches from sinking into the fabric.

The use of topping immensely enhances the appearance of embroidery on any fabric with texture. It may also be applied when embroidery has been carried off and re-stitching is needed. In this case, topping can stop stitches from sinking into holes left by the deleted design. Parts of the topping are left under the embroidered design and as a result, they modify the surface of the fabric that is being embroidered.

What one needs?

To start a new shop and know which backings to store can be a complex question for the embroiderer.

The small shop is advised to focus on maintaining a small inventory of light, medium and heavyweight backings, hence the shop can satisfy the customer's needs no matter which kind of fabric or product the potential customer brings in.

A bigger shop with numerous heads is characteristically embroidering for a specific market section. They would test depending on the runs that they are currently doing and choose the backing that functions most suitably from a performance outlook and a cost perspective. Until and unless the class of product they are embroidering alters suddenly, they will stay with that and then they would put to the test again.

In testing, the shop owner will embroider samples for the customer who then approves or disapproves the quality.

If one uses an inefficient backing, one is not going to have good stitch formation and they are not going to sanction the project.

Shop owners also should decide whether to purchase their backing on rolls or in pre-cut sheets.

If you have number of persons working for you, and you are paying large amount of salary for machine operators, you may come to know that the quickest way to do it is to buy it in cut sheets. On the other hand, you may have somebody who has time on their hands between embroidery that can cut it themselves. You must consider costs.

Tips and Tricks

Some tips and tricks for successful embroidery: If you apply spray adhesive with backing, it keeps the cloth thoroughly flat and not stretched out therefore when you get it out of the hoop, it appears nice, flat, smooth embroidery. It is also much easier to hoop since you are not pursuing a piece of backing beneath the shirt trying to discover if it's in the right place or not.

It is also advised that embroiderers always tell their digitizer in advance what type of garment the design will be stitched on, because the best backing and hooping job will not secure a design planned for the wrong shape.

Finally, experimenting is recommended. Nearly all of the topmost backing suppliers have models on hand.

Stitch out some samples. Check out a couple of diverse backings and a couple of different weights of backing. There are many experts out there, but eventually, if you just give enough time practicing with your device, you will come to know what works best for you.

Sew Special

It is tough task to know whether or when to apply specialty backings. Information provided below can help you decide.

Peel and stick:It is a tearaway backing with a pressure-sensitive coating and a release liner. It has three general uses:
. To make hard-to-hoop applications such as shirt collars and cuffs is easier.
. To stabilize high-stretch fabrics such as bicycle shorts and sweatshirts.
. To eliminate hoop marks that can occur with certain problem materials such as brushed denim and suede.

Caps: Tearaway cap backings are used to enhance the crispness of lettering and columns, specifically with low profile and unstructured caps.

Fusible: Fusible backings can be lastingly fixed to garments with a hand iron and are used for very stretchy and hard-to-hoop materials such as fleece and leather. They can also be used to coat the inside of accomplished embroidery designs that may have a rough surface, such as metallic threads.

Puff: Puff backing is a lofty material used to create a three-dimensional, trapunto or quilted appearance.

Children's sleepwear: Backings whose fiber content meets fire retardant standards.

Black backings: Black backings are used for dark garments where white backing would show and be distracting.

Toppings: Toppings are used to stop stitches from sinking into high profile fabric.

To read more articles on Textile, Fashion, Apparel, Technology, Retail and General please visit www.fibre2fashion.com. If you wish to download/republish the above article to your website or newsletters then please include the "Article Source?. Also, you have to make it hyperlinked to our site.

Fibre2fashion has emerged as a distinctive B2B platform for global Textile, Apparel, Fashion and Retail and allied industries. Fibre2fashion.com offers business solutions, news, articles and information that help to survive and sustain in the most hostile and competitive business environment.

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Sunday, January 20, 2008

Free and Custom Embroidery Designs


There are many fantastic designs available for embroidery. There are also a number of free embroidery designs available on the Internet. No matter if want designs for home embroidery, or designs for a customized logo, they can all be easily found.

Embroidery designs have several specifications. For one, designs themselves should really contain no more than four colors. However, more complicated designs can have more than four colors. Also, embroidery designs should avoid thin elements, as these do not embroider well. Embroidery designs also should not incorporate color blending or gradient designs. The technique is easily represented on a computer screen or painting but is not easily replicated with thread.

Home Embroidery Designs. If you like to do embroidery for a hobby, there is really no limit to the amount of embroidery designs you can find, and many of them for free. Home embroidery is a great way to create a personalized gift or memento. Embroidery designs can be used on everything from apparel, to Christmas stockings, to picture frames, to furniture. Many embroidery design sites offer fun embroidery projects that offer the home embroiderer a new challenge from time to time.

Custom Logo Design. If you are looking for a customized logo design, it is not as likely you can find this service for free. In order to have a customized logo prepared for embroidery, you must first create the logo, which must follow the general embroidery design guidelines about color and other elements. The logo must then be digitized, which is a process that puts the logo into a digital format that tells the embroidery machine where to stitch and when to change colors.

Embroidery is a fun hobby and a great way to customized apparel and accessories. Embroidery for logos is a great marketing tool for any type of business.

Angela Oliver is a contributing author for EmbroideryAuthority.com, specializing is custom embroidered logos, as well as a large line of apparel ready for embroidery. Please visit the site at EmbroideryAuthority.com for more information about custom embroidered logos.

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Friday, January 18, 2008

Embroidery Gifts and Products

There are so many products available for embroidery. This holiday season give a gift that can be forever cherished. Embroidered keepsakes are a wonderful gift idea for people of all ages. And if you're not a skilled embroiderer, not to worry. There are many available embroidery gifts and products ready for purchase.

Stockings. Stockings are one of the best embroidery products to give as a holiday gift. No family Christmas is complete without a stocking with everyone's name on it, including the family pet. You can find designs for people-and pets-of all ages. A beautiful embroidered stocking will make a gift that will be enjoyed year after year for many Christmases to come.

Frames. Picture frames are another great idea for an embroidered gift. Send loved ones a family portrait in an embroidered frame and choose a sentimental phrase to put on it. There are so many beautiful backgrounds and designs that can be used for embroidered picture frames.

Pillows and Blankets. When the mercury starts to dip down and Jack Frost is waiting at your door, there is not better comfort than a warm blanket. Give friends and family the gift of comfort with a personalized embroidered blanket. Include the persons name, favorite animal or hobby. There are endless options for personalized embroidery. And why not make it a set and give a coordinating embroidered pillow.

Apparel. Embroidered clothing is perfect for all gift-giving situations. Whether giving to the family or giving gifts to everyone in the office. There are many types of clothing available including fleece hats and caps, warm outerwear, and comfortable active wear.

All of these products can be purchased either pre-made or can be done in the home. Making crafts together is a fun holiday activity for bringing the family together and also gives you keepsakes that will be remembered for a lifetime.

Angela Oliver is a contributing author for EmbroideryAuthority.com, specializing is custom embroidered logos, as well as a large line of apparel ready for embroidery or heat transfers. Please visit the site at EmbroideryAuthority.com to view our complete line of embroidery apparel and accessories.

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Home Embroidery Machinery

Embroidery is a great pastime that can be enjoyed by anyone in the comfort of their own home. Home embroidery equipment has become much more affordable and easy to find. To get started there are a few essential elements necessary to start stitching.

Machine. Embroidery machinery for the home user can be found for about $500 for basic embroidery functions. Machinery can be used for sewing as well as embroidery. Newer machines are equipped with advanced functions including LCD design display and on-board embroidery software. All these functions make home embroidery easy and fun. So what other supplies do you need to get stitching?

Designs. Embroidery designs are essential. There are many beautiful designs provided by manufacturers and many free designs available, too. For those with a creative side, a custom design can be created and put into embroidery format using software. There are several free embroidery software programs available on the internet. Be weary of programs that offer automatic digitizing as this can yield a less than satisfactory product.

Thread-40wt. Once you have a design, you need thread to create the product. 40-wt thread is the most commonly used. Polyester thread is a high quality thread that is color-safe and break resistant. The quality of thread used is essential to avoid breaking, bunching, and other common embroidery problems.

Fabric. Embroidery can be done on almost all types of fabric. Cotton, polyester, wool, and synthetic fabrics are all commonly used materials for embroidery. The fabric is stabilized using an arm known as a hoop that secures the fabric to the machine in the correct positioning under the needle.

Have Fun! Embroidery is a very fun hobby. Understanding of the basic concepts of embroidery and a few tips for other embroiderers will help you to get stitching.


Angela Oliver is a contributing author for EmbroideryAuthority.com, specializing is custom embroidered logos. Please visit the site at EmbroideryAuthority.com for more information about embroidery machinery and the embroidery process.

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Thursday, January 17, 2008

Embroidery Thread Colors and Logo Design

When creating a logo, some seem to think that a perfect color match is absolutely necessary. However, this is simply not true. There are a great number of embroidery thread colors that can make embroidered logos look better than the original.

Consider Color of Fabric. Background color changes the appearance of the logo. The original logo is typically presented on a white background, while it is embroidered on denim and an array of cotton colors. Embroiderers can use digital software to view the logo on different color backgrounds and adjust colors accordingly.

Enhancing with standard colors. An experienced embroiderer can look at a logo and see what colors will work best. In many cases, the colors that come in the logo design can be enhanced by simply changing to a shade darker or lighter. Also using a different tone can dramatically change the appearance of the logo. In some cases, one solid color logo looks much better than multiple colors. By using one solid color, you can also save on cost. Less Colors=Less Cost. Embroidery cost is determined by a several factors including stitch count and number of colors used. The more time the machine must stop and change thread colors increases the overall stitch count of a project.

Embroiderers should use the best quality thread for the best result. Embroidery thread that is colorfast and bleach resistant is a must. Embroidery thread should also be strong and resistant to common problems of embroidery such a breaking and puckering. Polyneon thread is one of the best types of embroidery thread on the market today and is available in hundreds of colors.

Be willing to expand your color scheme to have a logo that looks good on all types of materials and all colors. Angela Oliver is a contributing author for Embroidery Authority.com, offering competitive pricing for all custom embroidered logos, apparel, and accessories. Visit http://www.embroideryauthority.com/ for more information about embroidery and some tips for logo design.

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Embroidery Digitizing

Embroidery Digitizing, Embroidery digitising, custom digitizing, $3.95 per 1000 stitches

Any Digitizing is one of company for digitizing service in the worldwide. Our team of professional digitizers with more than 15 years experiences would like to offer you the best digitizing services with a very reasonable price.

Any Digitizing is one of company for digitizing service in the worldwide. Our team of professional digitizers with more than 15 years experiences would like to offer you the best digitizing services with a very reasonable price.

http://www.anydigitizing.com/

Embroidery Digitizing, Embroidery digitising, custom digitizing, $3.95 per 1000 stitches

Any Digitizing is one of company for digitizing service in the worldwide. Our team of professional digitizers with more than 15 years experiences would like to offer you the best digitizing services with a very reasonable price.

Any Digitizing is one of company for digitizing service in the worldwide. Our team of professional digitizers with more than 15 ye

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English Embroidery - Centuries Of Excellence

The art of embroidery was practiced many centuries ago and is still practiced today. It would be highly unlikely that today's collector would be able to find or purchase much that was made prior to 1650, simply due to lack of preservation of such works. If one was to locate such an antique piece, it would be very expensive, due to its rarity.

Antique embroidery items of this nature can still be seen in museum-type settings or private collections. As one might expect time will have taken its toll on the piece.

English embroidery work from the Middle Ages has become well sought after throughout the world. What pieces remain in museums and private collections give good examples, and show just how this century-old hand embroidery work earned its reputation for being the finest work ever produced.

The very early examples of English embroidery were done on silk panels, of which most were white in color using silk thread to compose the design. Works were often designed around carved pieces, such as carved heads, faces, hands, and often shoes, which were then incorporated into the piece. The fine embroidery would fill in the clothing and background setting. These fine pieces of needle art would then be framed or perhaps inset into the top of a box.

In the 17th century one common stitch used in English embroidery was the straightforward tent stitch, embroidered onto wool or silk or both, with a canvas backing. Due to the durability of the canvas, there are more surviving examples of this kind of embroidery. In many cases, these works still retain the same brilliance of color now as they did centuries before. This same type of embroidery is still being practiced today, due to the fact that it can endure time without noticeable damage.

The eighteenth-century found many furniture manufactures incorporating English embroidery onto many types of furniture pieces, greatly increasing the value of a piece if present. The later half of the 18th century brought with it the embroidery picture. It was much in vogue to have such a piece in ones home. The pictures came in many sizes and frame shapes. As a rule, silk fabric and silk thread were used in these wonderful pieces of art. For added embellishment, many of these pictures were also touched up with watercolor paint. Such artifacts can still be found today. Unfortunately, this type of work did not wear well over time, and you would be hard-pressed to find one that does not show signs of fading. Even so, a picture of this nature would still have character and charm.

I would be remise if I did not mention the sampler. The sampler began as a simple reference panel. Whereas a pattern was developed, and colors experimented with, to come up with a desired design. In the eighteenth century it had become an exercise for children's lessons. Children were instructed to embroider letters of the alphabet, mottoes, verses, and texts. They also would have signed and dated their handiwork. Wonderful maps were also produced in this manner.

During the nineteenth century, samplers were designed to include vivid colors, and subject matter ranged from copies of famous art works to Biblical themes. Heavier threads such as wool were also used, and larger stitches were incorporated into the designs.

The nineteenth century also revived the art of using beadwork in the embroidered piece. Queen Victoria - the reigning Queen of England - took a great liking to embellishing banners, fire screens, and footstool coverings with beads.

Many fine examples of Victorian embroidery can still be found in antique markets today, which as a rule are in pretty good condition.

The wonderful art of embroidery is still very popular today. There are many talented artisans that design and produce beautiful pieces. I am sure many of these artistic creations will become the well sought-after antiques of tomorrow.

To learn more about embroidery, please visit Antique Embroidery and Elizabethan Embroidery.

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How Does Industrial Embroidery Work?

Embroidery is one of the highest-quality possibilities of textile refinements. Durability, feeling and washability of the applied company logo, motif or the promotion message are hardly to be excelled by other printing methods.

However, how does such an embroidery design get onto caps, pullovers or pockets?
At the beginning stands the idea of a design, mostly in the form of a company logo together with a slogan. If the idea only exists on paper, the design must be digitized into computer readable data. This takes place e.g. through reading in with a scanner. Then if the motif is available as a file, it must be converted into vector graphics. In this case, individual pixels are no more determining for the design but the lines, which separate a color field. One recognizes vector graphics also by the fact that one is able to enlarge them infinitely without quality loss, because the dividing lines always remain sharp. These vector graphics are loaded into the punch program. The semantics of the word is to be traced back to the procedures before the computerized embroidery program creation where the commands were still pricked by hand in a punch card made of hard paper.

The puncher on the software decisively determines the quality of the finished stitch content. Here there are dozens of parameters such as stitch density, stitch direction, stitch distance, stitch pattern and the precedence of stitch work correctly on the motif, the embroidery machine and the textiles to be embroidered. Thus a cap requires a different embroidery program than a leather jacket, even if it concerns one and the same embroidery motif.
Not without reason there are companies which have specialized one and only in the production of the embroidery motifs.
Then if the embroidery program is ready, it is transmitted either by network, direct connection or floppy disk to the embroidery machine. Again also in the embroidery machine there are different parameters which can improve the embroidery result or make it worse. The most important ones here are above and under thread tension and embroidery speed.
Then the real conversion of the program into the textile embroidery is only routine. The embroidery machine is made, in principle, just like a normal house sewing machine, many components, e.g. the under thread guidance looks very similar.

The essential difference is the amount of needles, which reaches from 6 up to 18 automatically changing needles and therefore usable colors in one motif. Then when the motif is constructed, a quick change of the embroidery piece can be done, which makes the embroidery very interesting especially for bigger works orders. Bigger embroidery machines are so-called multi head machines, here i.e. up to 24 embroideries are done at the same time. This increases the economic efficiency and therefore makes the price per piece more attractive. With the use of the finished product there are hardly any restrictions. Therefore, work clothes are embroidered with pleasure. Also clothes that needs chlorine laundry, like for example doctor's smocks can be permanently improved with special sewing cotton.

Jan Detlefsen is owner and operator of Tonsai Headwear, a full service company for headwear need of all kinds and a specialised Embroidery Company for Caps and Hats. He also runs a Blog about headwear.

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Friday, January 11, 2008

All You've Ever Wanted To Know About Embroidery

What is Embroidery?

Embroidery is decorative needlework used on clothing and other textiles. The word embroidery may come from two different places, one a Frankish word meaning braid, the other a Germanic word meaning border or edge. There are many different kinds of embroidery in the world and there is no clear concept of who may have done the first embroidery in the world. An art form with a long history in almost every culture the many styles and variations that have been created throughout the years are not surprising. However, most kinds of embroidery fall into one of two main categories.

Two Main Categories of Embroidery

There are two main categories of embroidery. The first, known as counted-thread embroidery includes styles like cross-stitch and needlepoint. All counted-thread embroidery is made by counting the individual threads of the canvas being embroidered when placing a stitch. Even textured fabrics like cotton or linen are usually used along with cotton embroidery floss to reproduce grid like patterns and pictures.

The second kind is known as free embroidery. Unlike counted-thread embroidery, free embroidery does not pay attention to the individual threads of the canvas. Instead it is able to spray freely across fabric, allowing for more realistic and less constrained designs. Chinese embroidery is an example of free embroidery.

Embroidery Embellishments

There are many different kinds of decorative stitches. Some of the most commonly used stitches are the straight stitch, the cross stitch and the knot stitch.

A straight stitch goes up and down through fabric and will tend to move in a single direction. Cross stitching is usually done by creating a series of diagonal lines going one way and then going back along the line to create turn each angled stitch into an individual x.

Knot stitches are made by wrapping thread around a needle while it moves through the fabric. The result is a tiny nub on the upper side of the fabric. It is used frequently as the center point of a flower.

Intricate embroidery has long been a sign of wealth. The number of jewels and decorations on individual?s apparel is a time-honored sign of power and respectability. Embroidery can be done with a wide range of textiles and can be embellished with almost any material. Beads, charms and other ornaments made of glass, metal, plastic and wooden can all be incorporated into embroidery. There are practically an unlimited number of ways to create embroidery and just as many accent pieces can be used for additional embellishments.

Art or Craft

Creating beautiful embroidery is both a handcraft and an art. Many kinds of embroidery can be done well after only a little practice. Many areas in the world use embroidery styles that are distinct to their locale. A study of the many kinds of embroidery shows how time and fashion has created new styles of embroidery to take advantage of modern innovations. While there are some people who use complex embroidery machines to speed up the process of embroidery, the age-old hobby will always be of interest and the finest results of the art will always be in demand. Supplies for most kinds of embroidery are easy to find at both craft supplies and fabric stores.

Samantha Brown enjoys Embroidery in her free time when she can find it. To learn more about the craft visit her Embroidery Web site http://www.embroideryhowto.com today.

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Fashionable Embroidery Fabrics

There are many types of embroidery fabrics so logos can be embroidered to any type of apparel or accessories. Materials used for embroidery can be chosen to suit any fashion style from athletic to corporate casual. The types of fabric used may require embroidery to be done a little differently. Below is a listing of the many types of fabrics used in embroidery and the differences in types of fabric.

Basic Cotton. Basic cotton is the one most popular choice in embroidery because T-shirts are a great way to display a logo and are inexpensive. Basic cotton is a lightweight material so it requires fewer stitches than heavier fabrics

Basic Cotton/Polyester. Cotton/Polyester blended fabrics are another light-weight material, also very popular for embroidery. Again, it uses fewer stitches because the fabric simply cannot hold that many stitches.

Woven. Woven fabrics like twill, chino, and tweed use a diagonal weave to create a stronger fabric with diagonal lines for a more dramatic effect. Woven fabrics are thicker than basic cotton and therefore can take more threads for a given embroidery pattern or logo.

Knit. Knit fabrics use a complex interlocking pattern that makes it more flexible than woven fabrics. It can stretch is all directions, so most knit fabrics are made with acrylic material for shape retention. Logos must be specially prepared to be embroidered onto knit fabric due to the many threads and loops in the knit fabric.

Fleece. Fleece is a thick and springy fabric made from synthetic materials. Since fleece has a raise fuzzy surface, proper underlay stitching must be used in order to keep the stitches from being lost in the fabric. If not embroidered properly, little bits of fleece may come through the embroidered logo.

Nylon. Nylon is another synthetic fiber used in a number of apparel items. Jackets and vests are very popular items for embroidery.

Leather or Suede. Leather and Suede are very thick materials, rich representation of group or business. Leather jackets used for embroidery are engineered for easy access for embroidery machines in the left pocket area. Letterman jackets of leather and suede are a classic look to include in corporate apparel.

Denim. Canvas, Denim, Twill and Poplin are all woven fabrics that are very thick and look great with embroidery. Denims and Twills and others come in a variety of shades and colors, and seamless denims are perfect candidates for embroidery.

Micro-fiber. Micro-fiber is a material made from very thin fibers of synthetic material that resists water and wind, so it's perfect for staying dry and looking professional. Micro-fiber is perfect for professional or athletic outerwear.

Sweaters. Sweaters made of various materials including cotton and polyester, and are ready for embroidery.

Backpacks, Duffle bags, Totes. Tote bags and other bags are made of cotton twill, 100% cotton, polyester, nylon, and a variety of other materials that are used for embroidery. Carrying cases are useful for a number of reasons and are a fashionable way to stay organized.

Pricing of embroidery fabrics depends on the type of material, while some are relatively inexpensive, others materials of higher quality are worth a higher price. There are also a great number of apparel items available in many different kinds of fabrics.

Angela Oliver is an author for EmbroideryAuthority.com, offering competitive pricing for all custom embroidered logos, apparel, and accessories. Get your company or group logo on hats, shirts, caps, and more. Visit www.embroideryauthority.com for a full selection of embroidery fabrics.
 

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Thursday, January 10, 2008

Embroidery. Tried and True Technique

Embroidery is a great way to enhance clothing or other items. Embroidery is long lasting and looks more elegant than the alternative of heat transfers or screen printing. Embroidery is embellishment you can feel and has been used throughout history to enhance the look of various fabrics. There are several classifications for embroidery depending on a few factors.

The first classification is determined by stitch placement and fabric type. Embroidery that is typically seen on garments is known as counted thread embroidery. With counted thread embroidery, a specific number of threads are sewn into a chosen fabric. Counted thread embroidery usually uses woven cotton fabrics and other even-woven fabrics like linens and canvas. The other type of embroidery is free embroidery which does not take into account the weave of the fabrics, as seen in traditional Asian inspired embroidery.

Embroidery is also classified into two different subgroups depending on if the stitches are placed on top of the foundation fabric, or through the foundation fabric. Surface embroidery is the type that is done on top of the fabric. Surface embroidery is typically the free embroidery type as opposed to counted thread embroidery. Most counted thread embroidery is done through the fabric, which is classified as canvas embroidery. In canvas embroidery, the stitches create a dense pattern that completely covers the entire foundation fabric.

Popular embroidery today is counted thread and canvas type. Embroidery is used on all types of items including clothing, bags, hats, and other accessories. Embroidery can be done on a number of fabrics as well, including cotton, denim, twill, fleece, pique, and silk. Embroidered Apparel ranging from outerwear to business casual can be embroidered in any style.

Embroidery has become an advanced procedure including the process of putting the embroidery pattern in digital form. The logo is then created by an advanced embroidery machine that can read this digital format. The result is an impressive piece of art that comes from the ancient art form of embroidery.


Angela Oliver is an author for Embroidery Authority.com, who has competitive pricing for all embroidery apparel and accessories. Get your company or group logo on hats, shirts, caps, and more. Visit www.embroideryauthority.com for more information about embroidery.

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Embroidery Thread

What kind of embroidery thread should I use? This is one of the most common questions we hear. The answer is simple, and difficult, at the same time.

The first thing to decide is what fiber to use. Rayon, polyester, cotton, silk, or metallic? All have their pros and cons, but basically it comes down to personal preference. I believe in using whatever threads work for your project. If it works well in your machine, and you like the effect you get while using it, then don't hesitate, enjoy it! Don't let the embroidery "police" tell you what you should or should not use in your project. As odd as it sounds, embroidery machines have preferences too. So experiment, and don't be afraid to use a particular thread just because it's not "made for that".

Rayon Thread

Rayon embroidery threads are currently the most popular threads used in embroidery machines. They perform consistently well in high-speed embroidery machines with very little breaking or fraying. Rayon is a high sheen thread, and often used as a lower cost alternative to silk threads.

Most Rayon embroidery threads are available in 40wt, though 30wt can be found without effort. A wide range of colors and shades are available, including variegated colors.

Though some brands can be, rayon embroidery threads are not generally colorfast. It is best to avoid using any bleaching agents, including those made for colors.

Stitches sewn with rayon threads are very smooth and consistent, leading to a higher quality embroidery project.

Rayon threads do deteriorate over time, so attention should be paid to how it is stored. In low humidity regions, rayon threads can be stored in the refrigerator to extend thread life for a long as possible.

Polyester Thread

Polyester is rapidly catching up to the popularity of Rayon threads for embroidery. It is a very strong and economical thread. Polyester embroidery threads won't fade or shrink in the wash.

The luster, or sheen, of polyester thread falls between that of cotton and rayon.

Polyester threads do have some give or stretch to them.

Polyester embroidery threads are available in a wide range of solid and variegated colors. Like Rayon, the most popular thread size is 40wt, but 30wt and 50wt can be easily found.

Cotton Thread

Cotton embroidery thread is available in a wide range of weights, and is suitable for most embroidery projects. 40wt and 50wt are the most common, but cotton threads range from 8wt to 100wt.

Cotton thread does not stretch a great deal, and will break if pulled too tightly. Cotton thread will fade with the sun, and shrink in the wash, so treat it as you would cotton fabrics.

Most cotton threads sold now are mercerized. This is a chemical and heat process that increases the luster of the thread. During the mercerizing process, fuzzy threads are burned off, creating a smoother surface. This smooth surface reflects light, increasing the luster of the thread. It also has the effect of increasing water absorbency, making the thread easier to dye.

Long staple cotton is finer and stronger than regular cotton. Most high quality threads are made with long staple cotton, creating a softer, stronger, higher luster thread. Long staple threads tend to have fewer slubs, lumps of lint spun into the cotton threads.

Silk Thread

Silk is an elastic, though very strong thread, and is among the most beautiful of natural fibers. It has a high sheen, and creates a distinctive look when used in embroidery projects.

Pure filament silk is the highest quality silk, as the fibers do not need to be spun; they come naturally in long strands from the silkworm.

Spun silks are made of shorter fibers. They come from broken cocoons or the beginning and end of cocoons.

Silk thread, and projects created with silk thread, can be gently washed in the washing machine with a mild soap. Bleaching agents should not be used as they can damage the threads.

In most cases, when it comes to thread, you get what you pay for. Good embroidery thread will stand up to high-speed embroidery machines without breaking or shredding. Bargain bin threads are inexpensive, but of poor quality, and will cost you in time and frustration.

Have fun, and don't be afraid to experiment with thread.

Stacy McDougall's company, Red Rock Threads sells quilting, sewing and embroidery thread online. View the Embroidery Thread that Red Rock Threads has to offer.

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Tuesday, January 8, 2008

Used Embroidery Machines

Used embroidery machines can be the most cost effective for novice embroiderers as well as for new embroidery companies just starting up.

For the novice embroiderer who wishes to buy their first embroidery machine, this is generally the smartest way to go. A used embroidery machine can be significantly less than a new embroidery machine. It allows the buyer to try out a specific brand or model of used embroidery machine they are most interested in as well as being able to try out embroidering itself with much less risk. If they buy a used embroidery machine that they dislike or if they do not enjoy embroidering, they have not invested the same kind of money, as they would have if they bought a new embroidery machine.

New embroidery companies can also benefit from purchasing a professional used embroidery machine. Much the same as for novice embroiderers, as used embroidery machine permits buyers more flexibility. Professional embroidery machines are very expensive and can cost anywhere from $7000 to well over $35, 000 for the embroidery machine alone, not including software, accessories, or materials. Used embroidery machines can be found for significantly less which makes start up costs for the business more reasonable and can mean the difference between success and failure for new embroidery businesses. Buying a used embroidery machine also gives they buyer a chance to use a specific brand or model and decide if it is really the one they wish to buy new in the future.

Used embroidery machines can be found from a variety of sources both locally and online. Most embroidery machine stores will offer used embroidery machines as well as new. This is generally the best place for novice embroiderers to start looking. Companies may prefer to start online, as they are more likely to find more selection from the bigger suppliers listed as well as better prices.

Both novices and companies should be sure to find out how many hours of use the used embroidery machine has, what work has been done on it and what kind of warranties are offered. Used embroidery machines are not less expensive if you buy a machine that doesn?t work or will break down shortly after you purchase it. There is always some gamble when buying a used embroidery machine, but you can eliminate most of this by buying through a reputable company and asking the right questions.

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Hoopless Machine Embroidery: How To Do It

All machine embroidery requires a stabilizer applied to the back of the fabric to prevent stretching, waving, pulling and skewing the design, but hooping fabric can be a frustrating challenge. And once the fabric is hooped correctly you often end up with dreaded hoop marks. The answer? Don't hoop the fabric; use a sticky stabilizer and hoop it, not the fabric, and eliminate frustration and hoop marks.

What is Sticky Stabilizer?

Sticky stabilizer is a machine embroidery stabilizer that has a slightly waxy paper coating, called the 'release side', over a self-adhesive, non-woven sticky backing. Some brands have a grid on the release side that comes in handy for positioning and marking.

When to Use the Sticky Technique

The hoopless sticky technique works best on smaller, less stitch intensive designs and on small areas such as pockets, edges, ribbons, cuffs; in other words, those areas that are difficult to hoop anyway. The hoopless sticky/float technique is by no means for all machine embroidery projects but it is a machine embroidery hooping option and finding what works best for you is a matter of good ol' trial and error.

Mastering the Sticky Technique
1. Trim the sticky stabilizer to about an inch wider and longer than your hoop.

2. Hoop the sticky with the release side up. It should be secure in the hoop: Tight, flat and without puckers or bubbles.

3. Remove the waxy paper coating from the sticky inside the hoop by first very gently scoring it with something like an X-Acto(R) knife or thread pick, then peeling it off.

4. Use your hoop's grid template to place marks on the stabilizer to locate the straightline center and right and left edges. Be sure to place your grid gently over the sticky with the bowed side up. Otherwise the sticky will do its job and grab onto your template.

5. Now lay out your design's placement on your fabric or garment, again marking the straightline center and right and left edges. Important: Place these marks on the backside of the fabric.

6. Grasp your fabric from the backside on the marks to make a gentle fold and, lining up the fabric marks with the marks on the sticky, carefully lay the fabric, backside down, on the sticky.

7. Smooth out the fabric, ensuring it is flat and secure on the sticky all around.

8. Now lock the fabric to the part of the stabilizer that is hanging over the edge of the hoop (the part with the paper still on) just to make sure it doesn't get caught on anything while embroidering. I often just pin it but double stick tape works great, too.

9. Mount the hoop onto your machine and 'float' a layer of stabilizer (tear-away, cut-away, or whatever type is recommended for your fabric) between the embroidery hoop and the needle plate.

10. Push the button and embroider it!

11. When your absolutely perfect design is finished, remove the hoop from your machine and remove the floated stabilizer.

12. All you have to do now is slowly peel the embroidered fabric off the sticky.

Machine embroidery just doesn't get any easier or more fun than this. And no hoop burns!

Deb Schneider is an embroidery design digitizer offering her machine embroidery designs, Redwork designs and appliques and machine embroidery information on her website: WindstarEmbroidery.com

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Friday, January 4, 2008

Machine Embroidery Digitizing - What You'll Need Besides the Software

You've purchased an embroidery machine, practiced the designs that were included in the package, maybe even bought a disc of designs or downloaded a few designs off the Internet to stitch out. Now you're thinking about investing in digitizing software and taking your embroidery to the next level. But the digitizing program is just a part of what you'll need before entering the creative world of embroidery digitizing.

Choosing the Hardware

An embroidery digitizing program is image editing software capable of converting a digital picture to stitches and saving it in a format that can be read by your embroidery machine. And, like any robust image editor, a digitizing program is resource intensive. The program's packaging will state the manufacturer's recommended minimum computer system specifications to operate the software. Let's take a look at just such a recommendation and see how the 'minimums' stack up. (I won't mention the program or the manufacturer but these are actual recommendations from a popular digitizing software. Yours may vary but probably not by much.)

The Computer

Manufacturer recommends: IBM-PC or compatible computer originally equipped with a USB port.

I recommend: The same.

Operating System

Manufacturer recommends: Windows(R) 98, ME, XP or 2000.
I recommend: Windows(R) XP Pro with the latest Service Pack and updates. You might be able to get by with an antiquated operating system but not for long.

Mouse

Manufacturer recommends: N/A

I recommend: Any comfortable, optical, non-rollerball mouse. When doing imaging you cannot attain the precision you need with a rollerball. And an optical mouse means there is no ball on the bottom to catch or jerk at a critical time.

Processor

Manufacturer recommends: Pentium 500 MHz or higher.

I recommend: Pentium class 1 GB or higher. The faster the processor the better. We're imaging, not typing a letter.

Memory

Manufacturer recommends: Minimum 64 MB (256 MB or higher is recommended.)

I recommend: Minimum 512 MB. Memory is cheap and more is always better. You can never have too much.

Hard Disk Free Space

Manufacturer recommends: Minimum 100 MB

I recommend: You'll need 100 MB free to install the software but you're going to need a lot more than that to store your creations. Purchase a hard drive with a minimum of 40 GB, 80 GB or higher is better. A hard disk is like a garage: It collects junk and you rarely clean it out. Give yourself plenty of room for storage.

Monitor

Manufacturer recommends: SVGA (800x600), 16-bit color or higher.

I recommend: 17" SVGA (1024x768), 32-bit color. You're going to appreciate the extra screen real estate from a large monitor, and you'll need to be able to easily differentiate your thread color choices.

USB Port

Manufacturer recommends: USB Ver. 1.1 or higher.

I recommend: USB Ver. 1.1 or higher, 2 or more. Some programs will run only if a card reader/writer is installed. That's one port taken. If your machine accepts input directly from your computer you'll need another port available to send your finished file to your machine.

Printer

Manufacturer recommends: A graphic printer that is supported by your system (only if you want to print your images).

I recommend: A graphic printer. You will want to print your images and the associated thread color data. As a side note: I'm not sure why anyone would have a printer that was not supported by their system.

CD-ROM Drive

Manufacturer recommends: Required for installation

I recommend: The same, but with a minimum twenty-four-speed (24x) drive speed. A higher speed drive is fine, it transfers data faster but it's also a little noisier.

CD-ROM Recorder Drive (RW)

Manufacturer recommends: N/A

I recommend: Once a year or so when you're in the cleaning mood, you'll want to burn your images to CD to reduce clutter on your hard drive and reorganize.

Deb Schneider is a machine embroidery design digitizer and digitizing instructor offering her machine embroidery designs, Redwork designs and appliques and machine embroidery information on her website: WindstarEmbroidery.com.

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Wednesday, January 2, 2008

PE-Design Embroidery Digitizing Software: Getting Started

What is PE-Design?

PE-Design is an embroidery digitizing software system available from Brother dealers and though the 'PE' stands for Personal Embroidery, don't let that fool you. It's a robust system that allows for some pretty advanced digitizing and embroidery and is an excellent program to begin learning the art of embroidery digitizing. The Graphical User Interface (GUI) or What-You-See/Interact-With-On-The-Screen is colorful with large, intuitive buttons and fly-outs. It's also organized very well with no clutter for a large workspace.

PE-Design allows the digitizer to convert a digital picture to stitches and save it in a format that can be read by the computer in your embroidery machine. The image can be one you've hand drawn and scanned, one created in another imaging program such as Adobe Illustrator, Adobe Photoshop, or JASC Paint Shop Pro, one you've captured (legally, of course) from the Internet, a CD or floppy, or a digital snapshot from your digital camera. Whatever the case, the original image must be in .jpg, .gif or .bmp format.

The PE-Design full product package includes a card reader/writer. It must be plugged into a USB port in order for the program to run. Though you can install the program on any machine, it can only function on the machine where the reader/writer is installed.

Once you've created your design, you can save it in Brother (*.PES), Husqvarna/Viking (*.HUS), Melo (*.EXP), Tajima (*.DST) and Pfaff (*.PCS) formats. It is a Brother product, so its native format is PES.

What Does It Cost?

The program will probably run you somewhere between $1,000.00 and $1,200.00, but if you are purchasing an embroidery machine or are a good customer of the shop and don't mind a little dickering, you might be able to negotiate a substantial savings. It never hurts to try. Here's a tip: Before you buy ask your dealer if any major upgrades to the software have been announced. If a major upgrade is forthcoming and you are in no hurry, you may want to postpone your purchase. Major upgrades come with a price, usually in the range of $250.00 to $300.00, and must be purchased from a Brother dealer. Though a major upgrade is usually worth the investment, you don't want to purchase the software one month just to have to shell out more money a few months later. Minor upgrades, from the current version 6.0 to version 6.07 for instance, are free, and are downloaded from the Brother web site.

Commercial or Home-based?

PE-Design is designed with the home-based digitizer and personal embroiderer in mind. That means that many functions or settings are automatic with limited manual control available to the digitizer. Commercial digitizing software is just the opposite: Functions and settings are in the hands of the digitizer and automatic settings can be adjusted and saved. Of course, commercial digitizing software will cost five to twenty times more than PE-Design. Still, in the hands of a skilled and creative digitizer, PE-Design produces excellent embroidery designs.

Beginning to Digitize

As with any sophisticated software be prepared to practice, practice, practice and use your creativity to explore and push the program to its limits. Learn the fundamentals of what makes a design sew out perfectly, then look at the designs you like with an analytical eye. Ask, "How did they do that?" and try to recreate the technique. With time you'll develop your own style and find your digitizing niche.

Many shops offer digitizing classes. Ask to sit in for free on a few before making a time or financial commitment. If all the instructor does is follow the booklet that came with the software, save your money. You'll probably teach yourself quicker.

Speaking of the manual: It is 262 pages and was obviously written by a team very familiar with PE-Design and the English language. It is well organized with plenty of images and screenshots, is very easy to read and covers the basic use of every tool in depth. It is not a digitizing teacher. Use it to learn the tools, it won't take long, then practice, practice, practice.

The Bottom Line

If you are interested and excited about learning to digitize your own embroidery designs, whether for personal use or to sell, PE-Design is a wonderful way to get started. Its reasonable entry fee and easy to use and learn interface, will allow you to reach new creative heights in all your embroideries.

Deb Schneider is an embroidery design digitizer and PE-Design instructor offering her machine embroidery designs, Redwork designs and appliques on her website: WindstarEmbroidery.com

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